Absolutely Magazine: Valentine Fragrances by Lawrence Roullier White

Despite being the most evocative of the senses, scent is possibly one of the most overlooked. Sure we are startled by a sudden sound, or jump at an unexpected moving object, but one whiff of a few fragrant molecules can whisk you away to another time and place entirely, stirring up all the long-forgotten associated emotions. Overcooked cabbage and floor wax fills me with the same sense of dread I had on the first day of a new term; whilst roses and lavender, bread and honey, tea and milk, remind me of sunny days spent in my grandmother’s garden with all my family close. 

As animals we are hot wired to use scent in an informed manner, the smell of fire stopping us in our tracks, the aroma of approaching rain making us seek shelter, the promise of food drawing us closer, the prospect of love making us reckless; foolish risk takers with little thought of consequence. 

It is hard to say if reactions to these scents are programmed into our psyche or acquired by association, probably both are true, however, no-one will dispute that certain scents make us feel weak at the knees and liable at any moment to fall dangerously head over heels. 

One of the world’s most famous sensual scents, ‘Tabu’ by Dana, was originally formulated in 1932 by genius perfumer Jean Carles (Miss Dior, Shocking for Schiaparelli and Ma Griffe for Carven). The nose’s brief was to create a fragrance that would be suggestive of a woman of the night and was marketed as ‘the forbidden fragrance’. It was only worn by women brave enough to do so, such as screen legend Ava Gardner. ‘Tabu’ was the original power fragrance, designed to turn heads and raise eyebrows. Today Tabu sadly languishes as a ‘pharmacy’ scent and, no doubt, its composition has changed since its inception, but should you see it in your local chemist it is worth having a spray of this piece of perfume history. You never know what might happen, after all Ava Gardner married Frank Sinatra.

Bang on trend are the super-fun fragrances from one-to-watch LA perfumer, Brent Leonesio. Witty art-pop/pop-art imagery adorns Brent’s brand Smell Bent, where elaborate packaging is eschewed in favour of high quality natural ingredients. ‘Miss Panda Gets Lei’d’ is a passionate, sweet blend of heady jasmine, guava, Japanese honeysuckle with lots of sensual Tuberose. It is young and fun but for the serious perfume aficionado. 

If you are in the market for a fragrance full of zest and zeal, then they do not come with a much greater pedigree or provenance than those of former Brazilian model turned perfumer Maira Jung. As understatedly elegant as the charming woman herself, each of Maira’s three scents speak of Latin love with a vein of hot-blooded passion coursing through them. ‘Vermelho’ - red in Portuguese – full of fruit accords which are blended with rare pitanga: a tiny red fruit that is unique to Brazil, where it grows in the wild and is believed to have aphrodisiac properties. 

‘Testosterone’ by Sentifique is a dry, rugged scent, but is brighter and cleaner than one might expect, due in part to the unique inclusion of patchouli crystals and stringent spices. It is manly but sophisticated, strong but sensitive.

‘Sexual Healing’ by Mark Buxton is designed as a fusion between male and female, the intertwining of the masculine and the feminine. The well-considered scent achieves what it sets out to do, blending blackcurrant buds and elderberry absolute with green, herby davana with masterly yin and yang effect.

No round up of sensual scents would be complete without mention of 4160 Tuesdays' ‘Sexiest Scent on the Planet. Ever.’ This concoction by true artisan perfumer, Sarah McCartney, contains the wonder molecule Iso E Super, which is said to change from skin to skin and creates a pheromonal effect. This elusive note pops with lots of tipsy, sparkling bergamot on a base of warm woody accords. 

As they say; ‘love is in the air’.