Absolutely Magazine: January 2015: Therapeutic Balms and Colognes

The history of perfume and wellbeing are inextricably linked; apothecaries and herbalists across Europe, and barber-surgeons in Britain, sold therapeutic preparations that understandably smelt amazing due to the aromatic potency of their ingredients. The blending of botanicals for health unwittingly helped birth modern perfumery. Before 1867 perfumes and colognes had always been considered part of the medicinal pharmacy, but at the Paris International Exhibition of that year a new exhibition space was unveiled the ‘Cosmetics Hall’- an industry was born.

Some of the world’s most famous scents started out not as fragrances but as medicines or cures. In 1709 Italian born Johann Maria Farina created a preparation in his new home of Cologne, which was used for treating sore gums and indigestion. French soldiers stationed there dubbed it Eau de Cologne. Napoleon used several bottles a day and subsequently the smell of the blend became synonymous with power and success; the fragrance, Farina 1709, is famous the world over, and is an iconic, classic scent.

Another Eau de Cologne, 4711, or ‘miracle water’ as it was known, was first created by monks as a herbal tonic to be imbibed. It was only in 1810 when a new law required that ‘medicines’ declared their ingredients that, rather than reveal the secret formula, 4711 was rebranded as a toilet water. Today, a spritz of energising 4711 is an excellent way to start any day, and a splash in a morning bath is the best hangover cure.

At the other end of the spectrum there are many therapeutic balms that, although created for their healing qualities, simply smell amazing. Relaunching this month is Pommade Divine. Used to treat dry skin, bites, scars, burns, spots and a myriad of other complaints, Pommade Divine’s heavenly concoction of nutmeg, cloves, cinnamon and liquidamber combine in a subtle, spicy scent which will have you holding your wrist up to your nose all day. It is a wonderfully warm fragrance full of calming comfort - the olfactory equivalent of a cashmere jumper. As Jo Farley, co-author of the Perfume Bible and co-creator of the brilliant Perfume Society (check it out on line) told me; it is a powerfully effective balm that is also a wearable daytime fragrance that works well when layered with an oriental scent in the evening.

Parisian brand Friction de Foucaud is an energising body tonic which was created in 1946 by Madame Lucienne Merle. She was living in Indochine (modern-day Vietnam) and concocted her now legendary skin treatment for the French military officers to invigorate tired and sore limbs and joints. The French Foreign Legion soon became addicted to it due to its refreshing sensation and fragrance. Friction de Foucaud contains a unique blend of essential oils of lemon, orange, lavender, thyme, rosemary and extracts of camphor and menthol and lives up to its slogan ‘Banish Tiredness’.

The wonderfully named Black Chicken’s Balm of Ages contains a sensational list of ingredients including; Lavender, patchouli, cajuput, mandarin, geranium, sandalwood, ylang-ylang, frankincense.  All blended to help combat frizzy hair, chaps, rashes, shaving sores, bruises and sunburn, all in one sweet smelling pot.

Lavender, rosemary geranium, chamomile and sea kelp come together in a sublime marine manner in the genius Nova Scotia Fisherman Rescue Balm; again, not marketed as a fragrance, this unique product for the outdoors man is a an elegant background scent for those men who do not like to wear cologne; a gateway scent.