Absolutely Magazine | Heaven Scent | Spain

As a ‘retail tourist’ Spain is one of my favourite destinations. One of my greatest joys is wandering the back streets of Barcelona, Madrid, or Seville and stumbling across an ‘undiscovered’ artisan studio, specialist shop, or particularly a hidden perfumery or apothecary.

Despite the many treasures to be found sadly Spain does not benefit from the reputation for fine fragrances bestowed on its French and Italian cousins. However, there is a great tradition in the country that goes back many generations, and a use of scent that would put us British to shame. From babies the Spanish fragrance their children straight from the bath. There are many baby-safe cologne brands on the market in Spain, such as the gorgeously presented one from the country’s oldest existing fragrance house; Alvarez Gomez. It is, however, Alvarez Gomez's sublime classic for adults; Agua de Colonia - sunny citrus with woody, herbal hints – which is widely and liberally splashed on post-shower. 

You would want to be more careful with the exquisite scents from the latest Spanish brand to land on these shores. Having spent 35 years creating fragrances for other brands in 2009 Ramón Monegal launched his own line, complete with a dedicated boutique on Carrer de Calvet, in his hometown of Barcelona. So many of today’s new launches are so similar that it is a delight to come across a range which is fresh and inspired; scents united by the common thread of craftsmanship, authenticity of ingredients and integrity, yet each individual and unique. My personal favourites are Dry Wood, sandalwood and cedar with a sprinkling of amber, and Cherry Musk, cherry, coconut, jasmine Chinese rose and strawberry on a bed of warm musks; but I suggest you set a few hours aside and sample the range. You are bound to fall in love with one of two of them at least.

I have long been a champion of another Barcelona brand, Carner Barclona. Sara Carner’s sensual line is a celebration of her remarkable city. El Born talks of the bohemian quarter famed for its café and bar culture, whilst D600 evokes the city stirring after a night of slumber; top notes of Madagascan black pepper, Sicilian bergamot and grapefruit dance across a middle rich with Guatemalan cardamom, Italian iris and Egyptian jasmine absolute on a bed of luxurious Virginian cedar wood, Madagascan vanilla absolute and sophisticated vetiver.

Major players in the global fashion market, Puig operates under license from some of the world’s biggest and best known fragrance and fashion houses. It is little known, however, that one of the company’s own forages into fragrance, Azur de Puig from 1969, is still available today. Opening with notes of bergamot, thyme and mandarin, the rounded middle is full of sweet jasmine and lily of the valley, countered by a base of patchouli and oak moss.

Jordi Roca is the pastry chef at El Celler de Can Roca in Girona, which in 2013 was named best restaurant in the world by Restaurant Magazine. Some of Jordi’s most ground breaking recipes are inspired by scent, however, in 2011 he turned the tables and created Nuvol de Llimona, Lemon Cloud, with perfumer Agustí Vidal; a perfume based on a dessert. The resulting scent? The aroma of a “lemon muffin soaked in milk”. What more reason would you need to book a weekend away?