Absolutely Magazine: Oct 2016: Lawrence Roullier White reports from Pitti Fragranze in Florence

Call me jaded (Black Jade by Lubin look it up) but if I had a pound for every perfumer who told me they were inspired to become such by picking roses in their grandmother’s garden I would have £26. Being a perfum buyer and writing about perfume you hear every back story, some are more interesting than others, but none more riveting than that of Filippo Sorcinelli, a literal modern day renaissance man. When his charming colleague proudly explained his astounding story at the recent Pitti Fragranze fragrance fair in Florence, I was immediately captivated by the brand. The multi- talented painter, musician, creative director, photographer, graphic designer and artist has also made vestments for two popes; Benedetto XVI and Francesco. When packing the ceremonial garments for delivery Sorcinelli started scenting the boxes, and lo another career avenue opened for the creative powerhouse. As you would imagine his brand Unum is impeccably presented and the scents are sublime. To try to explain them on paper would not do them justice they have to be experienced.

Les Potions Fatales is another cutting edge brand to look out for. Brainchild of Joseph Quartana, the creator was inspired by an episode of Breaking Bad to develop a collection of scents inspired by deadly flowers. This new colour conscious brand jumped off the shelf and stopped me in my tracks. Joseph is so endearing and fascinating, and the scents are so new and exciting, that this brand cannot fail to be a hit. Smell Hemlock if you have the chance, and Digitalis, inspired by the English country garden staple, but fatal, foxglove.

Another high point of the Pitti Fragranze show was the epic spectacle put on by brand building distributors; Intertade. An Italian company that represents some of the greatest talents in creative perfumery. It was a great privilege to meet one of my heroes, Niclas Lydeen, one half of the husband and wife team behind the immaculate Swedish brand Agonist. For many years the perfumes by this duo were out of the reach of many as each one came in a handcrafted glass sculpture. Now they are available in more traditional packaging and are eminently more affordable. Liquid Crystal is the one to look out for here.

It was similarly exciting to meet up with a familiar face, Giovanni Castelli, whom together with Antonio Zuddas, had made the world a better place thanks to their inspired brand; Blood Concept. Two new fragrances launch this month; XX and XY; inspired by the chromosomes that determine gender. However, far from being a masculine and a feminine scent the fragrances explore sexual fluidity; merging traditional female notes with a male scent and vice versa. Try them you will be amazed.

One of my all-time favourite noses is Dominique Ropion, he created one of my favourite scents, Geranium Pour Monsieur for Frederic Malle. I was, therefore, thrilled to discover the latest from über-cool brand A Lab of Fire, is a creation of his. The perfectly named; Messy Sexy Just Rolled Out of Bed was unveiled at Pitti and it is pretty lovely. It will be available mid-October.

Destined to be an absolute bestseller this Christmas are the scents created for the late Andrée Putman, the famous French interior and product designer. Andrée Putman created her first signature fragrance in 2001. This year, fifteen years later, her daughter Olivia Putman has released five more fragrances in honour of her mother. I can honestly say there is not one amongst the collection I would not happily gift to anyone they are simply that wearable. This is one of the most cleverly and subtly commercial lines I have experience of late. You will enjoy sampling each and everyone. Un Peu d’Amour is more than a little bit lovely.