Hooked On Classics

Hooked On Classics
In a modern world overly obsessed with the very latest innovation, I thought that this week, instead of focussing on the new,  I would devote my musings to scents that have stood the test of time and earned the right to be regarded as iconic!

There is much to recommend these fragrances; longevity is a sign of originality, quality and an ability to reflect the zeitgeist over decades, even as it changes. There have been very few of these scents in the last century; fragrances that go beyond the moment and become enduring classics against which others are measured. These are the Grand-cru of perfumery, the vintages that define a generation and beyond, earning themselves a place
in olfactory history.
Shop Now- Quelques Fleurs (EdP) 100ml - £120
'Quelques Fleurs' was created by the house of Houbigant in 1912 and was the first floral bouquet fragrance. The current incarnation is, in fact, a contemporary interpretation of the original formula as this was never published, however Perfumer Roger Dove is well-known for his devotion to the grand dames of fine fragrance and has been doggedly faithful to the original, fully restoring her to her former glory. Akin to falling asleep in a flower garden, this is a scent that can be worn any time of day or night with its heavenly combination of jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang, sandalwood and just a hint of vanilla at the base.  
Shop Now - Nohiba (EdT) 100ml - £75
'Tulipe Noire' by E.Coudray (one of the original French fragrance houses), was released in 1926 and became an instant hit with the flappers, most notably the legendary Josephine Baker. The emancipation of fragrance occurred at this time as women chose to express themselves in a more sexually-direct way and thus selected fragrances with darker, more sensual notes. This hedonistic hottie was recreated in 1978 and released as 'Nohiba', a spicy collation of coriander, cloves, roses, jasmine, cedar, patchouli and white musk. It will make you want to rattle your beads and Charlston 'til dawn.
Shop Now - Habanita (EdT) 75ml - £80
Another fragrance that marked the first stirrings of girl power was 'Habanita' by Molinard. Launched in 1921, it became known as 'the most tenacious perfume in the world' and was used to scent cigarettes. Although it is known as a tobacco fragrance it actually doesn't contain a drop, instead it exudes leather and orris root, patchouli and amber with a hint of fruit and a dash of vanilla. She is a bit of a dominatrix, housed in a shiny black Lalique bottle !
Shop Now - Pour Un Homme De Caron (EdT) 125ml - £68
Shop Now - Farina 1709 (EdC) 125ml - £65
One of the first fragrances created specifically for gentleman, 'Pour Un Homme De Caron'(1934), is smooth and utterly charming. A herbal lavender with minty undertones,
I always think of Cary Grant as John Robie in 'To Catch A Thief' and his portrayal of the mondaine cat-burglar, driving a sports car around the Cote d'Azure with Grace Kelly at his side.  Conjured by the great Ernest Daltroff, a self-taught perfumer of vision, this is a scent for men who don't have to try too hard! Also marvellously manly is 'Farina 1709' the original eau de cologne from Cologne! For a scent created over 300 years ago this fragrance is remarkably modern with an opening bouquet of fresh citruses underscored by faintly woody green notes at the base -this is elegant and sophisticated.   When you think that this was worn at the court of Louis XIV at Versailles it is a remarkable slice of history.
Shop Now - Ma Griffe (EdP) 100ml - £75
'Ma Griffe' was created in 1947 by my personal favourite perfumer of all time, Jean Carles.
A green, aldehydic chypre, this is a fragrance of extraordinary sophistication released by the indomitable Madame Carven, a 5ft fashion powerhouse with exquisite taste and an eye for marketing. She once dropped hundreds of sample bottles of the fragrance over Paris on tiny striped parachutes - tres chic! Gardenia, galbanum and fizzy aldehydic freshness combine to form the most interesting juxtaposition for this is a good girl who might very
well be a bad girl!
Shop Now - Bal A Versailles (EdP) 100ml - £75
'Bal A Versailles' was created by Jean Desprez in 1963 and marketed as 'the most complex fragrance in the world', with over 320 ingredients! This is a masterpiece and one of the great oriental fragrances and, while many scents are a string quartet, this is a symphony! Elizabeth Taylor, at the time the most famous woman in the world, famously fell for its charms and contributed to its iconic status. Restored to its original formula in the 1990's this is an epic combination of bergamot, lemon, mandarin, neroli, Rose de Mai, lily of the valley, lilac, orris, jasmine, ylang-ylang, cedarwood, sandalwood, vanilla, benzoin, melilot and tolu balsam to name but a few!

Classics endure for a reason, they are unique and extraordinary and, while often imitated, are never equalled!
New York has been a fantastic experience as always and incredibly energising. I have so many new ideas inspired by the talent that I have encountered here and I can't wait to share them with you ! But for now I bid you farewell from the Big Apple as I am off to meet the very talented Joseph Quartana  whose  ravishing 'Potions Fatales' perfume collection is exclusive to Roullier White.
Have a super w/e 
Michaelx
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