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The Psychologist Of Scent !
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The Psychologist Of Scent !
Earlier this year I was working at the store when a very tall gentleman arrived and introduced himself as perfumer Spyros Drosopoulos, founder of fragrance house 'Baruti' ( which is Greek for Gunpowder). He was in London to present a gong at The Art & Olfaction Awards and wanted to check out Roullier White as he had heard great things.
As we talked it emerged that this half Greek, half Dutch, self taught nose, is in fact a neuropsychologist by profession which had me hooked immediately!
I find the psychology of scent a fascinating topic - why do we like a certain fragrance or note? What draws us to one smell and not another and why can a smell transport us through time and space with such emotional pull? Who better, I thought, to take us on an emotionally perfumed journey than this man?!
Fortunately for me, Spyros had brought some samples of his fragrances with him and first out of the bag was 'Chai' an homage to the delicious masala tea served by street vendors across India. The smell is unmistakable, a mixture of cardamom, spices, black tea and steamed milk which turns sweet as it boils. Having visited India and been captivated by its colours and smells, I was in paroxysms of joy as he has nailed this perfectly. I was catapulted into the vibrant markets of this wonderful country with its smiling, energised people. I had a quick spritz and the scent has haunted me to such an extent that I have not been able to get it out of my mind and hence I have taken possession of the 'Baruti Collection' at Roullier White this week!
Spyros works out of Amsterdam and his fragrances are some of the most emotionally sophisticated that I have ever had the pleasure of wearing. He produces at Extrait strength and so the scent experience is intense and hypnotic - it is like existing in a really lovely dreamscape!
'Berlin im Winter' is smashing! It is the cosiest of scents, with whisky, coffee, tonka bean and a wonderfully spiritual combination of frankincense and myrrh. Relaxed and confident like the city itself, this perfume will work for any occasion and I am particularly captivated by the clever use of plum which floats across the sillage adding just a touch of hedonism! 'Tindrer' means 'sparkle' in Danish and it truly does. This conjures the countryside in summer with the bite of cut grass and verbena over twigs, leaves and a wet soil note. The forest floor is imagined with oakmoss and fir balsam, and the delicate scents of violet leaves and almondy heliotrope at the heart add incandescence. I find this very beautiful and uplifting and it melds to the skin well so great for everyday, although I have been wearing at the weekends!
'Dama Koupa' (Queen Of Hearts in Dutch) is a fantastic surprise, a coolly glamorous perfume of grappa and iris a with a touch of lipstick. Bitter almonds make it creamy but really the star is the outstanding iris note which is one of my favourites. It doesn't get much more sophisticated than this and I see her in cream cashmere with a slash of red lippy.
I love talent and Spyros clearly has it in spades. We have seven scents and I would recommend every one - they are ridiculously good and spectacularly nuanced, full of little twists and turns in the dry down. I shall watch his development with interest as I think that the perfume firmament has a new star!
Wishing you an emotionally charged w/e ( in the good way)
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