I have long been contemplating some regular 'Olfactory Musings' . I enjoy writing about all aspects of scent and attempting to communicate my passion for perfume, so I hope that you will indulge me! I have decided to speak about my favourite central notes to begin with, as thought that this will give me the opportunity to dispel many myths and illustrate the variety of interpretations available. What often happens with smell is that our memory locks onto one fragrance in particular and opinions are forever based on that. This is unfortunate, as firstly our olfactory memory can be very inaccurate (I cannot tell you the number of times that customers have asked for a fragrance and then say that it doesn't smell anything like their memory of it!) and secondly, there really is a rose/jasmine/sandalwood/vetiver fragrance for everyone, simply because there are so many different ways in which these classic notes can been used. There has never been a more exciting time in the history of perfumery, as new technology plus a raft of talented and fearless noses are constantly pushing the envelope and daring to go that extra mile. Also, the 'dare to be different' culture (always an intrinsic element of the British psyche) has been buoyed by Social Media and the knock-on effect is that Perfumers have thrown out the rule book, resulting in exciting, olfactory innovation and the emergence of scents featuring less obvious notes. All of this benefits the consumer as the choice is now immense, however there can be such a thing as too much choice so I thought that a rough guide to some classic ingredients might be helpful. Just call me The Sherpa Of Scent! For our first sojourn, I have chosen Jasmine, as it is flowering now, and I adore catching wafts of it from gardens. I am speaking of Jasminum Grandiflorum (rather than Sambac Jasmine), the spikey flower with which we are all familiar, the tiny blossom with the big voice! Jasmine is one of the cornerstones of the perfume industry due to its ability to elevate other notes and lies at the heart of a very high percentage of the greats, where it is traditionally teamed with rose. Jasminum Grandiflorum, like all flowers, will smell completely different depending on where it is grown, and jasmine oils can vary
from sweet to green and even musky! Historically, Jasmine is believed to have come from Iran, however in the 21st Century the majority is grown in Egypt. The flower has been prized for its scent millennia, notably in Indonesia, Arabia and India (where women wear the flowers like a ring!), however the flower did not make its European debut until the 16th century. Jasmine has a positively Wagnerian beauty, and I must begin with 'Savage Jasmine' from Sana Jardin. Although I have mentioned this recently, it is one of the simplest and purest interpretations of the bloom that I have encountered. Whilst there is a hint of cloves and a murmur of tobacco, Jasmine is very much the leading lady and here she is allowed her full Mezzo Soprano belt. This Valkyrie is not for the faint-hearted, but if one appreciates something iconic and theatrical then she is perfection. | 
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